It By Sarah G. Schmidt 2019-09-18 It By Sarah G. Schmidt 2019-09-18

Is Fashion Finally Alongside the Curve?

Political climate and literal climate of the world aside for a haute couture minute; I am encouraged. As New York Fashion Week wrapped up and we ride along the taffeta train to the other cities – London and then Paris – I am thrilled by some of what I see.

Credits: Photo - Anonymous, Styling - Sarah G. Schmidt, Location - Bridgeland

First up, how amazing was the lock down that Rihanna rolled out for her latest Savage Fenty presentation? Mobile phones on lockdown; photos on lockdown; music on lockdown; and chatter – mostly – on lockdown until she gives the world what it needs: all access via Amazon Prime starting September 20. She is no stranger to Amazon Prime as she featured in Donald Glover’s “Guava Island” earlier this year. This, to me, is just another example of her strength in business and strategic thinking. She has been building anticipation in her work and we, the people, are thirsty. Come Friday, I know I can expect to see people who are shaped like me and many more that aren’t. Some may have my skin tone and most of the others will not. That’s the whole point. All types of people want to wear lingerie and Rihanna is deliberately showing us that yes, you and your body, belong at Savage Fenty. Yes, they have that shape, size, and shade and would love to sell you it. Let’s watch to see how the revenue rolls in.

As we shift into fall, I am proclaiming summer 2019 was the summer of Lizzo. For those living under a rock, Glastonbury Lizzo should have woken you up to all of her amazingness. Musically, she’s no joke, and for the children both young and old, she is teaching us what self-love looks like. She wears what she wants, she says what she wants, and she’s not apologizing for being. She is reteaching us that you do not have to apologize for being outside of the whitewashed so-called norm. One is perfectly imperfect and more than likely, is telling “perfection” to go fuck itself. She plays the flute, she sings, she dances, she motivates, and she acts. Cut to…

Hustlers. Oh yes, Hustlers. I was delighted to see Lizzo as a stripper in the now hit status film, Hustlers. Maybe you came for JLo. Holy moly JLo. Perhaps it was Constance Wu or Cardi B who drew you in. But weren’t you tickled pink when you saw all of Lizzo holding down that stage? I sure was. There were a few clips in the movie where I saw women of all different hues, sizes, and shapes being seen as desirable and beautiful. Some may argue that stripping is demeaning and objectifying women is wrong. To that I say, “Don’t hate the player, hate the game.” While many of you are eye-rolling now, I would encourage you to brush up on exotic dancing and maybe even get yourself over to learning more about sex work in North America. It is fascinating and the safety and rights of those sex workers should no longer be ignored. A friend of mine says that sometimes you just need a tiny crack wedging in light to someone’s firm (traditional), closed minded dark basement-like opinions to help them see different. Maybe this movie can help create some cracks. And isn’t it nice to see a movie about hustling that isn’t centred around another white dude’s “journey”?

Finally, I’m thrilled about some more joy, served disco fresh from my beloved Zendaya (with the help of stylist, Law Roach, and using the platform provided by Tommy Hilfiger). It’s just so wonderful to see a variety of women, all ages, sashaying down the Tommy x Zendaya runway. Perhaps a side note, I do love hats and blazers and pants – it’s so cold in the winter it’s nice to have some stylish coverage, am I right – in so many combinations. It’s new/old America with a poster gal that is both stylish, and hella thoughtful in her actions. She’s a soft, yet firm advocate both on and off the stage. Don’t think I didn’t notice they went back to the Apollo in Harlem. Don’t think I didn’t notice her deliberate model casting celebrating all ages. Don’t think I didn’t notice she leveraged Hilfiger’s first-hand experience designing 70s era clothing for right here right now, and don’t think I didn’t notice those high waisted leather wide leg trousers. And I can’t even with the velvet suiting. I just can’t.

All of this awesomeness is hopeful. It’s hopeful that we are embracing and celebrating the future that’s long, long overdue. It’s been here right in front of us the whole, frustrating time, and it seems like mainstream is finally seeing it. It’s a future unfolding right in front of us where diversity is seen as a strength. A future when younger and older can learn from each other and work as a team. A future that isn’t so basic yet doesn’t throw away our history. Rather a future that’s respectful of our past and makes it worth seeing in a new light.

It By Sarah G. Schmidt 2018-09-12 It By Sarah G. Schmidt 2018-09-12

TMI: A Totally Made Up NYFW Fantasy Day Log

Do you ever catch yourself imagining a special trip for a special reason? Although you have never been to this particular place within a destination or the reality of actually going seems slim, do you fantasize about it anyway? That’s my current major crush situation with New York Fashion Week (NYFW).

NYFW is on my life bucket list. I’ve been to New York but not yet during fashion week. (Insert privileged sigh.) I want to see this and this and this up close with my own eyeballs. I’m sure you’ve all heard some version of the, “If you say you’ll do it tomorrow really means never,” saying. Ouch, my heart. That’s a bit black and white, even for icy me. I do understand the sentiment behind it: doing the thing you want to do requires you to just do the damn thing. Understood, yes – however - I’m going to need a bit more time. 2019, perhaps?

Negativity aside - because who needs that in a made up fantasy of your own imagination – a hobgoblin can dream. Should you enjoy a random, but not actually happening IRL style day diary-like story, stay with me. This is how I imagine an ideal day at fashion week.

06:02 / Wake up in my impossibly soft, all white linens engulfed semi firm bed in a boutique hotel somewhere between the financial district and midtown. It’s not quite light out but there are glimmers. I whip off the linens, scoot to the bathroom, and hop into the humongous (for New York) shower with marble tiles, glass walls, and brass fixtures.

06:21 / After a long, hot shower I blow out and style my hair – and would you believe it’s an amazing hair day for me – and put on my face. Real talk.

06:43 / I skip past my cool-but-not-too-cool outfit that I laid out the night before because I’m dramatic and need sartorial options. I whip together an outfit including multiple silk scarves and huge earrings. It’s too much and I love it.

06:57 / I’m getting out the hotel doors and onto the street. At a nearby café, I grab an Americano and sip away. Likely taking a few minutes to check my Instagram for a social media buzz. My food comes out piping hot. It’s a single, medium poached egg with a yam, chorizo, and greens sautéed something. Maybe I’d have a nice piece of fresh, seedy bread to soak it all up.

07:46 / Now I’m off to the subway to head to take in the morning presentation I have tickets for. What designer you may ask? Turns fantasyland Sarah isn’t picky.

08:09 / I have arrived outside the presentation venue too early. Typical Sarah. To be honest I much prefer to be early so I can try to calm down my excitement a bit and people watch.

09:05 / Next up: I’m seated front row (who am I kidding, I’m way at the back and loving it) at presentation one. Naturally it starts only only five minutes fashionably late.

09:49 / After dying and coming back to life - because I become aware that everyone has left the space and the fluorescent flood lights flick back on - I gather my things and head out the door. Not before I take some empty room selfies, of course.

10:14 / For the next presentation I feel super fortunate because the second venue was a short walking distance from the first stop. Cute, right? Again, I creep from the outside before I head in.

11:26 / The second presentation is over. Dead. Again. This time I’m able to get out the door before the last of the people. Growth already.

12:41 / After walking to a lunch spot I sit down. First I order a sparkling water as I mull over the menu. There’s no need to rush so I take my sweet time. After the server comes over for the second time (I asked for a bit more time after the initial check in) I order a soup - let’s say mushroom - and tomato, pesto, and bocchini loaded croissant. After I finish my meal, I sit with a black, drop coffee and visually scour the room. “What are they wearing? Where are they going? How many rooms are in their impossibly natural light soaked apartment do they have?” These are just some of the questions I silently ponder.

13:48 / The afternoon is filled with discount department and vintage shopping. After four and three quarter hours fliiping through racks and digging in deep bins, I find it delightful that I find a regal blue velvet and fringe kimono (no label as it was cut out), a second hand silk square scarf – designer of course – and seven pairs of clip on earrings from decades before. Score.

18:31 / As I head back to my hotel to drop off my things and take a quick relax before the final presentation and dinner I take a new street I haven’t been down before. I get lost, pause to check my pre-downloaded Google Maps, and regain my bearings. Along the way I buy water from a street vendor cart and replay the day back in my mind so I seal in all the best details.

20:52 / The third presentation was the best. “It’s funny how it worked out that way,” I am thinking to myself as I sip my bourbon with two small ice cubes. My belly is full from dinner, I had swordfish BTW, and I’m high on life. Oh did I mention I didn’t have to pay for dinner as my partner was in town too for work and took me out? I’m a lucky gal.

23:08 / As I look out at the twinkling lights and ingest the blaring horns from my hotel’s roof top patio and finish my second bourbon, YOLO, with two small ice cubes, I pinch myself. What a day.

23:46 / After a hot shower to rinse the city off of my tired yet happy body I am tucked into that glorious bed again watching reality TV. With my hair wet on the pillow I take a gulp of water from the crystal tumbler glass on my nightstand (don’t worry, I filled it with bottled water) and I reach for the lamp.

23:53 / It’s snoozeville for me in the city that supposedly never sleeps. I guess that makes me an outsider. Touche.

Where would you like to go? Is it a fashion destination or something else entirely?

It By Sarah G. Schmidt 2017-09-13 It By Sarah G. Schmidt 2017-09-13

Is Persistence the Key to Progress?

My mind has been all over the place recently. Things just seem to keep escalating, building a shit storm atop the shit storm. Dwelling in the chaos and cruelty is not a friend of mine. Rather, I’m more of the move-forward-and-eventually-you’ll-feel-more-positive kind.

Credits: Photo - Anonymous, Styling - Sarah G. Schmidt, Location - Staples Chinook

As the world slowly – or swiftly, depending where your vantage point is – implodes, I marvel at those who simple move forward. They just get up, dust themselves off – figuratively or literally – and move, forward; forward always. Right, Luke Cage? People continue to travel, have children, celebrate birthdays, and start new projects. This makes sense to me. Until now I never viewed so clearly as an act of defiance. Persisting, or getting on, is a remarkable statement.

To the small minded bigots – and a reminder they are a small, yet dangerous minority of people - who want things to go back to this perceived utopian time (ps. When the heck was that? I don’t remember history depicting it that picturesque) simply moving forward and living your life is a huge slap in their face. As in, “No thanks, I’m not afraid of you. I’ll keep doing my own thing far, far away from you.” It's living out loud proudly, refusing to hide.

September is a big doing-all-the-things month. This year is no different. In spite of what is going on, September moves forward. Film red carpets at Toronto International Film Fest (TIFF), Spring Summer 2018 (SS/18) Ready–to-Wear presentations at New York Fashion Week (NYFW), and fall campaign launches from brands. Yeah yeah.

TIFF is the time for starts to come to the Great White North and represent for their latest projects. Some of these films are in the midst of campaigning for awards season. With awards season hustling, comes va-va-voom red carpets appearances. The red carpet style eco system works as bit like this: show up looking spectacular, media gets interview with said spectacular star, media publishes look in a gallery like this, and the star gets a pat on the back from the film’s producers for getting their film in the news cycle. Let’s count all the wins: the film gets promoted in a Canadian city, star gets to keep making movies, media gets great content, and the fashion community gets to dress the rich and famous. Some may call it silly, but they persist.

Shifting to NYFW, it’s all about the next season. AKA: The future. In the past few years as the fashion community has been shifting focus and questioning the relevance of the traditional show now, buy 6 months later model – hello, see now, buy now – whilst still sending models and their latest looks down that runway regardless of what season they are choosing to show. NYFW, too, persists regardless of what is changing. They keep creating regardless of what may come. We are at the mid way mark so there’s lots more to see and digest both on the runway and on the streets of New York.

The September issues of magazines are already out and they are sharing what brand's pieces we’re drooling over come fall. The one that caught my attention was Ivy Park. Not just because of Queen Bey – who is always exciting – but for whom she’s cast in her advertising campaign: jumpy claps for Laverne Cox. I love that Ivy Park is a brand that expanding our idea of what’s beautiful. It is not a singular – dare I say, thin, white young women – it’s inclusive of more. After much persistence, this brand is helping more and more people include themselves as part of the body-love and body-proud conversation. Through persistence of simply being proud of who they are and not hiding, we get to see more types of beauty celebrated.

One thing I love about fashion is that when it looks back it’s for inspiration on how to do things differently moving forward. It’s not about blind nostalgia. The industry is not restrained to its past. It’s actively trying to move forward. Not just with trends of the garments, but also with business models, fashion week systems, and progress on what we consider beautiful. They persist. I hope we can, too.

It By Sarah G. Schmidt 2017-02-22 It By Sarah G. Schmidt 2017-02-22

Is the Latest Vogue 'Diversity Issue' Trolling Us?

The fashion industry has made strides in inclusivity and showcasing diversity over the past few years. There has been a big push from inside and outside the industry to do better. To show more of a spectrum of the beautiful types – all types – of people that can showcase clothes.

Credits: Photo - Anonymous, Styling - Sarah G Schmidt, Location - Sarah G Schmidt's home

As we shift from New York to London Fall 2017 Fashion Weeks, the runway is showing us more. More types of bodies, more types of backgrounds, and giving voice that it’s not okay to have racist-fuelled travel bans. Brands at New York cast models who didn’t have to take off their hijab or be a light skin tone. There were vivacious and slight body types alike. Yay! Shout outs to team Marc Jacobs, Michael Kors, Christian Siriano, and Gucci for their casting. Sure, there’s a long way to go yet but I’ll take the progress as a good sign.

Or so I thought. There’s that saying that you’ve got to take the good with the bad. Boy, do we ever when it comes to our American neighbours.

When I heard about the latest American Vogue issue dedicated to the theme of diversity I was pumped. I heard that there was going to be a bunch of different models – all sizes, background, and profile - on the cover. I was excited. But when I saw the cover and the inside diversity themed editorial I, like many, was taken aback.

Showcasing 7 models of a similar skin tone (thanks photoshop?), wearing a similar outfit, all smushed together on a beach is not exactly what I thought celebrating diversity. Why are we trying to make people look all the same when the theme is diversity? Why are the models turned to the side to appear slim instead of a more realistic or at least jubilant pose? That’s an obvious missed opportunity, cha?

When I got inside and saw the spread with Karlie Kloss featured as a Japanese Geisha, I was aghast. I said to myself, "This cannot be for real? Why would you cast a Caucasian American to portray a Japanese cultural icon? Surely there are more suitable – ahem, Japanese – models for a traditional Japanese cultural themed photoshoot." What a huge – and more disappointingly - deliberate miss.

That "nah-ah-nahhhhha" voice I acquired from working in advertising agencies that I thought was buried deep down inside me came back up and screamed, “There is no way this passed through all of the rumoured hoops of the Anna Wintour editorial approval process? This would have touched at least 100 people (set people, photographer team, wardrobe stylists, makeup artists, hair stylists, editorial team, creative team, location folks, agents, publishers, art department, and ANNA WINTOUR) in some way or another and they all thought, ‘Yep, this is so diverse. So 2017. Aren’t we progressive?’ and went ahead with it?"

<Imagine me face palming my head with both hands and squishing my face while simultaneously shaking my head “no” in utter disbelief.>

I couldn’t logically rationalize the whole thing so I pushed the topic to the back of my mind for a couple days. Bluuuugh.

Ready to try again, I reviewed the editorial. Although I was still disappointed I had a new dark, cynical thought: is Anna just fucking with us? Has she stooped to the lows of prioritizing click bait editorial decisions? Is she sabotaging the respected reputation of the magazine for the dreaded PR cutthroat strategy of all-press-is-good-press? Sadly, that, to me, makes more sense than trying to figure out how this could have happened in good faith.

Full disclosure: I do not claim to be a diversity expert. I have much to learn and aspire to one day live a woke existence. That said my gut instinct on this is that it is not rocket science; it’s quite simple. Should a brand, designer, editor, or whomever want to feature a specific culture, ethnicity, or background, let’s be sure to feature person from that exact community, shall we?

For a publication that prides itself on being so ahead of the curve in so many ways, this is a strong indication that it is not in vogue at all.

It By Sarah G. Schmidt 2016-09-14 It By Sarah G. Schmidt 2016-09-14

NYFW 2016 Revelation: Pondering the Show-Now-Buy-Now Model

As much as I love the summer I welcome the fall for one reason only. No it’s not the basic pumpkin spiced lattes that beige people love so dang much that get me going; it’s New York Fashion Week (NYFW). Bring on the runway style, the street style, and the festivities.

Credits: Photo - Anonymous, Styling - Sarah G. Schmidt, Location - Market Mall

I’ve voiced my concerns here, here, and here about the need to excite the viewers in the past. I urge that brands give us something new. Something so “right now.” As consumes we want to see what’s novel and fantastic. This year’s headlines are not so much about the actual clothes, but other business decisions. All anyone can talk about right now is the show-now-buy-now model being tested by some huge names.

The fashion show cycle typically went like so: Brands show a collection that will be in season six months from now. This is done so that fashion insiders - like retailers and fashion magazines - could have enough lead time to get ready. The idea being that the industry would need that time to prepare and launch the collection to the public. Thus consumers would see next year’s spring in the fall and forthcoming fall in the spring. As with many other product-oriented businesses, times have changed. Cycles have sped up and the consumer is craving it now. The thinking is why should we wait six months for clothes you’re showing us today?

The argument for showing the fall in the fall, aka: show-now-buy-now model, is that the consumers are ready to buy the clothes now and they are in season so why put off selling them? Why wouldn’t brands capitalize on the timely sensationalism? Seems straightforward, right? The retailers and advertisers can adjust their calendars and be sure to keep the collections secret (via non disclosure agreements) and away we go. Marketing the products would make more sense than the past process as it’s showing what’s in season and available. Makes it a no brainer. Also, copy cat retailers will have to adjust their production schedules which may slow them down. I’m sure that original designers would be pleased if that happens.

Brands that are trying this new model out include big fancy names like Burberry, Tom Ford and Tommy Hilfiger. Smaller brands like Club Monaco and Thakoon are jumping on the wagon, too. The thing to watch for is if these collections sell more than they would if they showed six months ago in the old model.

The arguments against this show-now-buy-now model are that the consumer should not be the tastemaker. Some suggest that maybe the consumers are not the ones to decide what’s fashionable or not. In the “olden days”, few fashion magazine editors and select ambassadors would help generate buzz around pieces. They would dictate what was in style. That tight knit control is no longer the case as socialites, celebrities, bloggers, and models often heavily influence what’s “in” thanks to the daily stream of gorgeousness on their social media accounts. Another concern is that if brands are too focused on satisfying consumer demands that the art of the collections may suffer. They'll go too "mainstream."

Whats the verdict?

Who really knows? Not yet at least. We have to wait and see. We’ll likely know what’s working after a few more seasons more brands decide if they, too, are shifting or if they are staying firmly put.

One other thing to mention about NYFW: Hell yes to Christian Siriano for not only casting models with racial diversity he cast body diversity too for his presentation. FINALLY. A small adjustment makes a huge, humane impact. Good for you.

It By Sarah G. Schmidt 2015-09-16 It By Sarah G. Schmidt 2015-09-16

It’s Time for #PlusIsEqual at New York Fashion Week

It’s that time again. It’s New York Fashion Week. While the streets are flooded with the usual fashion community, a newer movement, too, is hitting the streets. Designers, models, stylists and supporters flooded Times Square for the #PlusIsEqual Lane Bryant event. The campaign is calling for support in representation of all sizes of women in fashion. Excuse the forthcoming location pun, but I think it’s much overdue in terms of time.

Credits: Photo - Anonymous, Styling - Sarah G. Schmidt, Location - 1100 Block of Kensington Road NW

According to the campaign website noted above, 67% of American women wear sizes 14+ but are drastically underrepresented in the visuals we see everyday. Take a moment to think about how many women have you seen on a billboard over a size 6, let alone larger than that? How about in ads and editorial in fashion magazines? How about on your favourite TV show? Now think about how many women you know that wear size 14+. We know they exist, so I ask Fashion (capital F in an effort emphasis the entire industry): where are they?

Healthy women come in all shapes and sizes. So do unhealthy women. Can we agree that “Size ain’t no thang.” Or at the very least, I don’t want to make this a size thing. For me the number inside a garment is just to get you in the ballpark of what may fit and flatter. It’s a necessary means. And not necessarily mean.

In an attempt to create more awareness on this dramatic representation shortfall the #PlusIsEqual movement crashed the Fashion Week party. The movement’s manifesto is superb:

When I look around, what I see doesn’t represent me. I deserve more. I’m ready to share the spotlight.

It's time to see a change. To see a body like mine on a billboard and in magazines. I’m sexy, spirited, and stylish with nothing to hide. Worthy of being seen. Just as I am.

It’s time to represent. Because my voice is one of many and I want to live in a world where we are all seen and celebrated.

Many use labels such as “curvy” or “plus size” when referring to women and the fashion in the size 14+ range. In an effort to distinguish it just makes people feel “other.” When I asked a few women how they felt about the terms, “curvy” or “plus size” I received feedback that ranged from, “I love the term curvy,” and “I hate them both,” all the way to “How about it’s just another size?” or my personal favourite, “F*c% the word “plus” and “curvy. It’s demeaning.””

Regardless how any one personally feels about those labels, they are simply labels. As a society I feel we are quick to categorize and sort people into this or that but we hardly take a moment to think about the harm that labels can do. We tend not to think about how they intentionally separate. Or how they can be damaging. When it comes to a person’s size she (or he) wears, is the additional label helpful? We already have the numerical size for fit guidance, thus, I think not. Fashion is supposed to bring people together through a common art form. Frankly, I urge you all, like my friend, to, “F*c% the word “plus” and “curvy.””

We all deserve to be represented. I hope one day, too, celebrated. Like I have said here, here, and here we have to see to believe. Diversity, including more sizes in fashion, must be a priority. I believe representation of all types of people and talking about what we have in common helps us, only then, to understand our differences from a kinder point of view. We must showcase all shapes and sizes so we can love each other - and maybe the most important - ourselves.

If nothing else, hear me from a capitalist, economic point of view. There is a demand for more sizes, styles and representation for women who wear a larger size that 12. Hello! There’s money to be made, brands. How about you make more sizes in your brand’s collections so more women can buy it? Show more, sell more, earn more. It’s doesn’t have to be so hard.

As you review the NYFW SS16 presentations at the newly minted Vogue Runway take a look and see if the fashion community you click, try, and buy represents all the wonderful women in your life.

Looking for more NYFW coverage? Check out last year's post.

It By Sarah G. Schmidt 2014-09-10 It By Sarah G. Schmidt 2014-09-10

Part 2 of 2: Coverage of New York Fashion Week

Last week I advised what I would be watching for at this September’s Ready-to-Wear New York Fashion Week (NYFW). I must say, after reviewing over 100 presentations I am underwhelmed. In the pursuit of newness, I admittedly may misinterpret solid showings for, “been there, done that” lacklustre.

Last week I outlined what I would be watching for at this September’s Ready-to-Wear New York Fashion Week (NYFW). I must say, after reviewing over 100 presentations to date* I am underwhelmed. In the pursuit of newness, I admittedly may misinterpret solid showings for, “been there, done that” lacklustre.

As for noteworthy trends or standout items I will say that I gravitated towards pants and long shorts. There were some spectacular cuts that I am very much looking forward to perusing in early 2015. While cruising my usual online outlets, I had heard mumblings of the flat versus heeled shoe debate. I saw as many highs as low heels so I won’t declare a clear winner one way or the other but I do see that people are playing with it. If the heel queen, Victoria Beckham, herself presented flat slip-ons, it’s something to explore.

Diversity

Disappointed but optimistic for the future is how I would describe my reaction thus far. Yes many collections include men and women from a variety of backgrounds. My issue is that who is walking is nowhere near proportionate or reflective of the larger population. I would go so far as to say for most brands showing this past week they did the bare minimum effort. I argue it has to be better. This should be a priority.

This matters to me because consumers matter to me. I thinking to myself, “Hello brands, we are opening our wallets for you. Can you hear us?” If brands continue to refuse to show a reflective variety of backgrounds, identities, sizes and shapes I argue that they are choosing to continue to keep certain people out. I challenge brands to consider the following: if consumers can’t see themselves in your fashion, why should they buy it?

Set Design

I admit I am a sucker for wanting a good visual show. Having said that, I understand that many venues have quick turnarounds between shows. This would limit what designer "A" can do with his/her time in advance of designer "B’s" showing. I also kept in mind that start up designers have limited budgets for set design. But the household names didn’t have these limitations.

Tommy Hilfiger, for example, transported his attendees to a flower trimmed winding road of a nostalgic, swinging universe. It set the tone for his fresher than recent years showings. It was fun if nothing else.

Nicole Miller complemented her patterned collection with a mod meets psychedelic black and white catwalk. This enhanced her presentation.

Thom Browne’s presentation strode through the grass runway. He managed to balance his expressive set, colour and fabric choice with restrained cuts and clean lines throughout his collection.

Collaborations

My hat comes off to Opening Ceremony and it’s collaboration with Spike Jonze and Jonah Hill. Instead of a traditional catwalk, the brand opted to present the audience with 100% Lost Cotton - a one act play at the Metropolitan Opera House. Models and actors alike were clad in the designs and delighted the audience with a satirical, somewhat insider look of the process of developing a collection.

Street Style

Due to the hot heat this past week we got to visually enjoy the last of summer style in New York. This seemed especially cruel to me considering Calgary’s current blustery weather. Many showed off their duds, and skin, seemingly soaking in the last days of the season’s sunshine.

Others came and went from presentation to presentation donning bold graphics, prints, stripes and logos. See the Beckerman Twins for an example. Others chose a more minimalist approach with simple, chic separates. Then there was the regular assortment of off duty models looking effortless as ever in denim and tees.

Regardless of the fashion worn I sensed a relaxed feeling or ease in both the streets and the catwalks. The end of summer can do that to a person.

Final Takeaways

In no particular order, my trend declarations are the following:

Exposed midriffs are done. Especially the bra and skirt with a jacket over top is so very over. If I see more than a sliver of torso skin in 2015 I will treat it as old news.
Structured knee to ankle length trousers, as described above, are on my wish list. Love this vibe.
Black and white colour palette is I.T.
Prints to snap up include large scale flowers, gingham, vertical stripes and dots.
Proportions were played with a lot. Please know that just because there is more fabric to a garment it does not necessarily make the body underneath it look bigger. Enjoy the extra room (and comfort) in a structured or sculptural cut.

I’ll leave you with a tip on accessory styling: to look up to date, carry your bag in your hand. From what I have seen, I suggest it’s all about holding it in your hand with a straight arm near your hip. I encourage you to scale down and save those shoulders for another season.

If you want to view the presentations for yourself style.com and vogue.com have great coverage.

*Note: Presentations reviewed up to 9pm ET Tuesday September 9, 2014.

It By Sarah G. Schmidt 2014-09-03 It By Sarah G. Schmidt 2014-09-03

Part 1 of 2: Coverage of New York Fashion Week

Instead of getting the end of summer blues, I will focus my attention to the next great thing: September’s New York Fashion Week (NYFW). In anticipation of the next eight days, I thought I would share what I’ll be watching for. Of course I will be awaiting each collection’s sartorial vision for the upcoming season – that’s a given – but I’ll also be watching for other details. I want to see the choices brands make behind the collections

Labour day was just two days ago but it feels long gone. Instead of getting the end of summer blues, I will focus my attention to the next great thing: September’s New York Fashion Week (NYFW). In anticipation of the next eight days, I thought I would share what I’ll be watching for.

Of course I will be awaiting each collection’s sartorial vision for the upcoming season – that’s a given – but I’ll also be watching for other details. I want to see the choices brands make behind the collections. Below is a brief overview of what I’ll be watching for, with the purpose of reporting back next week.

Diversity

As designers and brands get more of a consumer push to show a variety of models in size, age and background, it will be interesting to see who steps up. As I’ve mentioned before brands that make diversity a priority, to me, are a part of fashion’s future. Those who don’t make it a priority will be sending a strong message, as well. I am curious to see who will be walking for whom.

Set Design

Setting the stage for a collection is part of the grand hoopla. Designers are expected to take us away to their world as part of the show. Bring on the clouds, the props, the stunts and the pounding music. Let us be entertained!

Collaborations

Brands will often align with a celebrity, be it an actor, a musician or an artist. That works. Of course it does. A recent refreshing surprise was Rick Owens Womenswear collection in Paris, where dancers were the show. Not only was there a variety of women, but the women were shown in a setting of strength mixed with beauty. I would challenge that I tend to see one or the other. Why one has to choose is beyond me. If nothing else, you saw his designs in motion on a bunch of different bodies. Pretty cool. What will the partnerships be this September?

Street Style

Oh, the streets. I would argue who and what people are wearing to the shows will feature as prominently in the blogs as the collections themselves. I will be paying special note to how trendsetters are wearing their accessories and what themes will stand out. Stay tuned, fashion friends.

There’s much to wait for, so wait I will. For more NYFW details visit the sponsors website here.

Is there anything you’d like me to watch for?